Guided Tour of Le Chateau De Caumont
By Alice Bouilliez First published in Grapevine #48 Summer 2004
What a wet horrid, windy day for an outing! Not the bright sunny Gers that we expect in Springtime!!
Rendez-vous was at the Chateau de Caumont where we were welcomed by Madame de Castelbajac herself who showed us around her castle. The first stop was a video in the wine cellars where, in spite of the cold, we learned a brief history of the place. The 16`h century castle was built in place of a much older castle of which only a few stone walls remained.
The kitchens were the next stop. The huge vaulted ceiling was supported by a vast stone pillar. At one end was a huge chimney with a spit ( ‘tournebroche ), once used to roast enormous mutton and beef sides. Over by a window was what must be the ancestor of the AGA – a `potager’ – where glowing cinders from the great fire would be put into five places over which the heavy copper saucepans were stood to simmer. There was also a pile’ or large sink that could find a second life as a Jacuzzi! This room is still used by the family in winter and can be hired out by the public for small group celebrations.
Across the great courtyard (used for concerts in the summer) we followed Mme. de Castelbajac to the front door, a rather modest little castle door that led into the Great Hall – ‘Le Salon Troubadour’ or ‘Salle Rouge’. This was a large room with a wonderful Pyrenean marble fireplace based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. The room itself had been damaged by vandals during the revolution (1789 to 1793) and was restored in 1820 in the gothic revival style by an Irishman called James MacMahon. In 1796 he married the daughter of the Marquis de Percin Montgaillard la Valette, Pauline. Her dowry was the Chateau de Caumont. Their only child, Caroline, married General Marquis Armand de Castelbajac but tragically died in 1816, in childbirth. She was only 19. The grieving family dedicated a chapel to her memory in what was her bedroom.
Complete with a stained glass window by Marechal, the chapel also houses two rather battered 17th Century `gisants’- white
marble statues in the likeness of the father and mother of the Duc d’Epernon and his brother, who built a beautiful convent nearby in memory of their parents. Sadly, the Convent des Minimes was destroyed by revolutionaries, who threw the statues into the river Save. They were re-discovered during the extensive renovation work carried out later and placed in the shrine to the much-loved Caroline. Armand was looked on as a son by the MacMahons, who handed over the chateau to him. After 8 years of widowhood, he married Sophie de la Rochefoucauld, who was largely responsible for the decoration of the chapel.
The next room was ‘Le salon Ivoire’, an Italian drawing room inspired by Sophie de la Rochefoucauld. Her portrait is on the wall as is that of her grandfather, Francois Alexandre de la Rochefoucauld, Duc de la Rochefoucauld-Liancourt. the father of the School of “Arts et Metiers” as well as the inventor of the weaving industry in the north of France. The room is very light with a beautiful ‘a caissons’ ceiling, painted in 1840 and still lovely today. There are some gorgeous Italian marquetry cabinets and, in the corner of the room, amongst the medals, is a darling little crib covered in pink toile.
Up the stairs which are very grand with Doric, Ionic and Corinthian vault keys, are the chapel and the bedrooms. The corridor is covered with hunting prints and leads to the King’s bedroom where Henry IV stayed for three nights some time before (obviously !) being killed in Paris by Ravaillac, encouraged by the King’s mistresses and the Spanish Empire. The room has been delightfully restored by the “Compagnons devoir du tour de France”, a company of young specialist craftsmen. They apprentice themselves for many years before they leave for their “tour de France”, restoring historical buildings as they go. They have done a wonderful job with the restoration.
The end of the visit involved going along a balcony and down a stone spiral staircase that revolves down to the left, “leaving the sword arm free for the night watchman”. Perhaps I should explain. When the defending guard descends the stairs to confront his attackers, he would support himself on the central pillar, leaving his right arm free to wield his sword. If he came down a right-handed staircase he would need to put his sword (`arme) in his left hand to use his right hand on the central pillar. Then he would be vulnerable – and probably dead ! Nowadays, if a Frenchman dies, you can say “II a passe l’arme a gauche”, a phrase directly derived from this situation.
The gardens at this time of year are very well worth a visit – as is the Ice Room – a medieval fridge. The irises are magnificent—visit in mid-May to see them at their best – and you can still see the very peonies that Sophie de la Rochefoucauld was holding in
the portrait of her in the Italian drawing room. All this with a
background of Cedars of Lebanon and the old ruin of the original
castle leave one breathless – a real `jardin a I ‘anglaise ’. Such a lot of work to keep up and well worth our meagre contribution.
We finished a lovely day with lunch at the restaurant “Le Relais de la Diligence” at Monferran Saves, on the N 124 between L’Isle Jourdain and Gimont.
Details: The Chateau de Caumont, Cazaux-Saves, 32130 Samatan (Gers). The chateau is sign-posted from the road between L’Isle Jourdain & Samatan. There are 2 lovely big reception rooms available for exhibitions, receptions and seminars. For tour details, reservations etc., phone: 05.62.07.94.20
Guided visits: 1st March to 30th Nov:- groups can visit the chateau by appointment.
May, June, Sept, Oct – Weekends and holidays, 15h to 18h
July & Aug – every day I5h to 18h. The visits take about 1 hour Price 5 euros. For groups, price is dependent on the numbers.
directly derived from this situation.
You can just imagine how impressed we were when Alice dashed off this fascinating write-up of our excellent ESLG tour of the Chateau de Caumont on 4th May. How many of us could eat and write at the same time I wonder ! ! All the ladies, (21 in all) were delighted with the outing, particularly being guided by the “Chatelaine” herself, Madame de Castelbajac. Vicomtesse de Castelbajac. I bought a little book there, “Le Chateau de ??Caumont et les Ducs d’Epernon” with details of the complex history of the chateau. This is in French but there are excellent information sheets about each room, written in English by John Wilkinson, (who lives in Le Castera), so do ask for them when you visit. The Castelbajac family continue to finance this priceless piece of French heritage on their own, without help from the state so every visitor helps to preserve this lovely chateau and grounds..
You may be interested to know that in 1953, after 400 years in the hands of the descendants of Pierre de Nogaret and Marguerite de L’Isle, difficulties with the succession resulted in the Chateau “passing into the hands of strangers”, the Marquis de Turenne. A quarter of a century later, in 1979, the present owners, Le Vicomte Jean de Castelbajac, a retired airline pilot, and the Vicomtesse were able to buy the chateau so it is now back in the hands of the de Castelbajac family, the true chatelaines of the Chateau de Caumont.