A VISIT to the VERY EAST END of EUROPE
By Addy Thornborough
Addy has been member of the Group since its inception and we were delighted when she offered to write about her recent visit to her homeland, Bulgaria. A map is included — to help those of us who had only a hazy idea of the geography of Eastern Europe!!Many thanks to Edna, who typed it and provided the lovely photo of Addy., taken at her birthday party in July last year.
Nearly six months ago I flew to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria.
One of my friends says that, after Vienna, one is in a different world. She is quite right but, at the same time, one notices how much all those countries called the “Balkans” have become very ‘westernised’.
For those who do not know where exactly Bulgaria is – here is some geographical information. On the South is Greece and the part of Turkey which is still in Europe. It is the narrow strip of water called the Bosphorous, (aka Bosphorus or Bosporus) which divides Europe from Asia. It joins the Sea of Marmara, then the Aegean Sea which finally makes that vital shipping link from the Black sea to the Mediterranean. On the North is Romania – the boundary is the river Danube (a long river starting in the Alps, crossing Europe and finishing with a big delta in the Black Sea). On the West is Yugoslavia (now divided into Bosnia and Serbia) and Macedonia. On the East is the Black Sea and after that, one is in Asia.
Maps courtesy of www.theodora.com/maps used with permission.
Sofia has many open markets all along the main streets – you will see mountains of peppers, aubergines, water melons, etc. One buys sacks, not kilos! But now many huge supermarkets have been opened. One can buy anything from all over the world. There are many fashionable boutiques, like Christian Dior, etc.
The Bulgarians are very “outgoing” people – all day long all the numerous cafés, bars and restaurants are packed with customers. The climate allows one to sit outside on the pavements and all restaurants have adjoining gardens.
There are many varied restaurants – Turkish, Armenian, Russian, Czech, etc. Of course, in the centre is Pizza Hut and, Macdonald’s! Food is usually excellent. Many salads, grilled peppers, aubergines, courgettes covered with yoghurt. Many interesting starters like stuffed vine leaves with rice (eaten cold), also covered with yoghurt. A famous salad is the Shopska Salata – tomatoes, grilled peppers, onions, all covered in crumbled white cheese – typical of Bulgaria. A famous soup is tarator – chopped cucumber, yoghurt, diluted with water and ice cubes and flavoured with crushed garlic and dill.
The meat dishes are of great variety – Greek Turkish, Russian and many grilled kebabs and cuftedes (meat balls). Lots of stuffed peppers with minced meat, moussaka – layers of aubergines and minced meat.
The desserts are also very varied – apple strudel (Austrian), the very typical banitza (layers of fine sheets of pastry, white cheese and eggs) can be eaten with or without sugar. Then, of course, there are the very sweet baklava and cadaif – soaked in a heavy sugar syrup. Large quantities of wine are produced and exported to other countries.
A bit of history:-
After Bulgaria was liberated from the 500 year Turkish yoke in the late 18th century, the country became a kingdom.
During the last war Bulgaria underwent several major political regimes. Hence the re-naming of the boulevards and some towns – it became confusing. My parents’ flat was on boulevard Tzaritza Johanna, the wife of king Boris. When the Bulgarians became allies of Germany, the boulevard was renamed “boulevard Hitler”. When the Russians chased the Germans out of the country at the end of the war, it became “boulevard Stalin”! Now it is called “boulevard Vitosha”. Vitosha is a beautiful mountain only several kilometres from Sofia. It has been and still is the recreation ground for many people. Lots of mountain climbing, walks and skiing. Of course, the once rather primitive hostel huts have been replaced by very good hotels, ski lifts, etc.
The centre of Sofia luckily has not been changed – there are still many beautiful buildings from the last century, like the Parliament, the ex-Royal Palace, the University and the Opera House.
A unique feature – the centre of Sofia is paved with ochre-coloured tiles, like paving stones. Before the government joined Germany and Italy, the Germans used to drop leaflets threatening that soon they would target the yellow pavements ! But the government did join the Axis and the only bombings were by British and American bombers, dropping bombs on the way back after bombing the oilfields in Romania. Not that much destruction, but the sirens were heard often day and night.
Travelling through the country, one can still see real peasants, wearing national costumes – very colourful. The folk dances, horo,
rutchenitza are very lively – the music is usually bagpipes and wooden flutes (kavals).
Luckily in Bulgaria there are no religious problems. The country is Bulgarian orthodox, but there are some Catholics, protestants and Mohammedans. In the very centre of the city, opposite one of the luxury hotels, is the big Turkish church – Djamaita – a prominent feature of Sofia.
The main orthodox cathedral, Alexander Nevski, is very beautiful – several huge rounded cupolas covered in gold! Not far away is the very pretty Russian church.
There are many very interesting monasteries, some tucked away in the mountains, with beautiful icons and frescos. There are also many mineral water spas – the Romans discovered them – and many people go there for cures. Lots of Roman ruins can be visited.
The Black Sea coast has been developed from one end of the country to the other with luxury hotels and golden sandy beaches.
One can get information for getting to Bulgaria from travel agencies, airports, etc. so why not make it your next holiday destination?
Bon voyage and bon appetit! §§§